Food Trails of Gujarat

Food Trails of Gujarat

Gujarat is a foodie’s paradise. And we challenge you to finish reading this article without drooling over all the goodies we talk about here. Gujarati cuisine is an eclectic mix of spices, condiments, and loads of sweetness. Primarily vegetarian but believe us your taste buds will not miss the meats at all. The cuisine changes every few hundred kilometres but then that is true for the entire country – cuisines and dialects change every few hundred kilometres in our country.

 

The sweet and the tangy

When in Ahmedabad

The city has many food hubs including Law Garden and other markets. Not just the authentic Gujarati dishes but also the experimental fusion foods – you can let your taste buds explore everything. Start with the “Baap” of all experimental food joints – go to Manek Chowk for a flavourful dinner. Be ready for a culinary experience like no other for an extended dinner here. Manek Chowk is in the heart of old Ahmedabad city and is a bustling square which has different markets at different times of the day and night, this place never sleeps. Post late evening, the area is a bustling food court with fusion foods as its main highlight and charm. Indulge in some chocolate and ice-cream sandwiches and all types of kulfi – even a masala kulfi. It is an experimental and eventful food bonanza. Try some pasta dosas, double cheese pizza, pizza with Indian and Chinese twist, different kinds of bhel, all types of chaats, street food from all around the country and for those who have a sweet tooth – indulge in some rabri and jalebi or malpua. You name it and they have it! Top it all up with a tall glass of buttermilk so that the stomach is ready for the next day’s delights. When in Gujarat you can’t do justice to all the toothsome foods in just one day, you definitely need at least a week.

The next morning you must go for the famous Heritage Walk. The walk culminates at Jami Masjid which is close to a century-old Chandravilaas restaurant that serves the most amazing Jalebis and Fafdas. Have a sumptuous breakfast here. Fafda Jalebi is a must-have, you may also choose from Khaman, Dhokla, Khandvi, Handvi, Thepla and finish it with a Masala Chai. The place boasts of such clientele as Mahatma Gandhi, Sardar Patel, Kishore Kumar, Dev Anand among many other famous personalities. Proceed for a city sightseeing tour after your breakfast.

The next meal has to be another culinary delight. Finish your sightseeing, return to the hotel and freshen up for yet another Gujarati speciality dinner. Dinner has to be the world-famous Gujarati thali at Gordhan Thaal. The place has a long waiting on weekends but it is always worth the wait. The thali as the name suggests is an authentic Indian platter with many small bowls in which you would be served Undhiyo, Kadhi, Dal, Mixed Vegetables and Basundi. Dry snacks known as “Farsan” usually consist of Kachori and Dhokla. Assorted breads, rice and salad will accompany. Buttermilk to help soothe your stomach. An expert advice here – never say no to buttermilk, it always evens out anything that your stomach did not like despite your taste buds going gaga over it. A few bowls of Basundi or Aamras in summer have never done any harm to anyone.

 

Let’s go to Bhavnagar

Bhavnagari farsan is famous the world over. There is something definitely very special about the namkeens made in Bhavanagar else how would they be so crisp and addictive. You can’t stop at a few, you need to have a couple of bowl-fulls. Gathiya, sev, khakhras and all types of dry fruits – deep fried. Takeaways can be half a kilo of sev to a truck load of all types of farsan. The amazing fafdas come in box like packaging that prevents them from getting crushed. But gathiya is the most popular snack that is even exported from Bhavnagar.

Gathiya

Surti street food

Surat is the diamond polishing hub of the world. What a lovely city – has everything one can want. There are beaches and there are rivers, there is the best wholesale fabric market and then there also is the diamond polishing bazaar. And to call it the destination for the best street food in the world is no exaggeration. It is a foodie’s paradise. Walk along any popular market and the lanes are packed with food vendors selling street foods from around the world – there is Mumbai’s Vada Pav and Dilli’s (Delhi’s) Chaat, Mexico’s Tacos, China’s Chowmein, Italy’s Pizza and America’s Burger! Let us just list down a few of these items for you :
Locho – a modification of khaman served with different sauces. We recommend “Gopal Locho Khaman House” for an authentic experience.
Locho
Surti Khamani – Made from chana dal and garnished with tangy chutneys and crispy sev.
Ghari – a sweet dish like no other is all we can say.
Undhiyu – Surati version of the mixed vegetables but definitely much superior in taste.
Bhajiyas – call them pakoras (fritters) and you will know what we are referring to here.
Ponk Vadas – A very seasonal dish available for a few days in winter only. It is not only healthy but also very very tasty. Made from fresh Jowar this snack is a must-have.
Ponk Vada
Collegian chaat – Does the name not say it all? All college goers know about it and it is one of the most popular snacks among the student population of Surat. The main ingredient is peanuts – healthy and filling.
Nankhatai – Any baker would tell you that nankhatai isn’t just another cookie, it is a celebration in itself. Get the best ones from a two hundred years old bakers – Dotivala Bakers and Confectioners.
Ice Dish – The ice gola got a makeover and became Ice Dish! Crushed ice topped with vanilla ice cream and fresh cream and nuts and flavoured squashes – that’s the sinful ice dish for you.
Rassawala Khaman Dhokla – Yes, add spiced-up gravy to your regular dhokla and you get this amazing curry. Have it just like that or with Pav or roti or rotla.
Egg Paratha – Your Frankie as the egg roll is called in Mumbai became egg parantha in Surat and got a little more spice and a little more butter to make it tastier.
Nankhatai
Surat should actually have a separate blog post dedicated to the street food of Surat. Life in Surat can never be boring.
The Parsi Food Trail – Udvada  
The closely knit peace-loving community preserves its heritage so beautifully that we recommend a visit to Udvada to one and all. Walk through the quaint and peaceful town clicking pictures of heritage homes. The famous Atash Behram Fire Temple or Agiyari as they call it is an architectural marvel to behold. Non-Parsis are not allowed inside the temple but you can click many many pictures of the facade from outside. Parsis’ cuisine is very unique and so different. There are some old cafes and hotels here where you can taste the very original and authentic Parsi food. The world-famous dhansak, mutton pulao and papeta tarelli chicken need to be devoured with full greed. Other specialities include khurchan – dry roasted spicy organ meat, patra ni machchi, crispy chicken farcha, fluffy Parsi omelette, dudh na puff and for the dessert you must have lagan nu custard and hand-churned ice cream in the seasonal fruit flavour – mango and seetaphal being the most favourite.
Iran Shah Fire Temple, Udvada

Welcome to Vadodara

Once you are done with visiting the world-famous Laxmi Vilas Palace and other sightseeing, it is time to indulge in the butter-rich street food in Baroda / Vadodara. The best places to eat obviously will be found near the university campus. Try the egg preparations – omelettes, not-so-French French toast, spicy anda bhurji and the evergreen most loved boiled eggs. Another popular food item from Baroda is the Bhakarwadi, a twirled savoury snack – spicy and tangy. Baroda has a lot of Maharashtrian influence and hence Vada Pav and Misal Pav also are quite popular here. Like Ahmedabad, Baroda too has a lot of fusion food stalls all around the city. Do sink your sweet tooth in the falooda ice cream after your eggy dinner.

Egg bhurji

Operation Flood 

Milk lovers, you all know about the revolution called Operation Flood aka Amul that started from Anand and swept the whole country, inundating the lives of all Indians with milk and nourishment. Immerse your taste buds in flavoured milk, ice creams, cheeses and Shrikhand. You can find Amul anywhere in Gujarat and in the rest of the country too. But so many flavours of Shrikhand can only be found in the land where Krishna, the God who loved cows and milk, is worshipped. Oodles of butter and creamy fluffy Shrikhand must go with every meal. Indulge in the goodness of this healthy food. Visit the Amul factory for the freshest chocolates and ice creams.

Kesar Shrikhand

The indigenous burger : Kutchhi Dabeli

A Gujarat trip is incomplete without a visit to the Rann of Kutchh – the white desert, as they say, “Kutchh nahi dekha, toh kuchh nahi dekha.” (If you haven’t seen Kutchh, you haven’t seen anything).  Kutch is also famous for its very own version of burger – The Dabeli. A soft bun, filled with squishy spicy potato filling, topped with nylon sev and chutney and roasted peanuts, main attraction being the ruby-red pomegranate seeds. These come with a warning : NO ONE CAN EAT JUST ONE!

Kutchi Dabei

Jamnagar Ghughra

Popular street food from Jamnagar is Ghughra which is a deep-fried “Gujiya” shaped snack. The fillings are usually made of chana dal or spiced potatoes. Crispy and spicy – a perfect evening snack with your hot cuppa!
Ghughra

Porbandar Khajali 

Khajali is a kind of spicy deep-fried biscuit. Best paired with hot beverages like masala chai, it is an irresistible and addictive snack. While you are picking up your supply of Khajali, you must visit the spice market in Porbandar too. Porbandar is Gandhiji’s birthplace and Kirti Mandir, the Mahatma’s home is a must-visit site here. Also visit the Sudama Mandir and Bharat Mandir.

Khajali

What to carry for friends and family

Fafdas, Khakhras and Nan Khatai of course! Then there is Bhavnagari farsan, bhakarwadi and dry fruits. You can also pick some ready-to-make mixes of khaman and dhokla and make them later at your home. For fafdas and khakhras we recommend Induben Khakhrawale though these are available all over Gujarat and are promoted through the cottage industry. A packet of Porbandar Khajali will slip in easily into your luggage. Another popular snack that can be carried along is the Chorafali, deep-fried spicy fritters of besan and urad dal.

Khakhra

If you are a food blogger, a food photographer, a food connoisseur, a food critic, a food technologist or in simple words, if you LOVE FOOD, take a food trail across Gujarat with us and savour the many flavours the vibrant land has to offer.

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Images sourced from Flickr, Pinterest, Maps of India, Youtube, Indiamart

~ Pooja Bhatnagar